1. Mark up a piece of masking tape as shown in Figure 1.
2. Cut across top of can as close to the turned rim as possible and cut off base 40mm below rim.
3. Apply masking tape to bottom edge of can.
4. On opposite sides of can, cut along lines to make two tabs 20mm long.
5. Bend out the tabs.
6. Cut a further 10mm from base of can.
7. Cut along the remaining lines in V shapes to leave 20 tapered tabs 10mm long.
8. Fold the tapered tabs up inside the can. This will help the adapter grip the burner cone.
9. Form each parallel tab into a tube, around a 20mm piece of approx. 2.5mm copper wire, then bend each tab up parallel to the side of the can.
10. Fit the brass insert from a piece of 3 amp terminal block over each tube, and tighten one of the screws onto the tube.
11. Carefully dismantle an Aladdin mantle by putting a small screwdriver under each end of the mantle frame wire and levering upwards until the crimp on the wire loosens. Take care not to poke a hole in the mantle.
12. Slide the mantle frame into the end of each brass terminal, position the mantle with the skirt just touching the top of the can, and tighten each screw.
This is based on a design by John Whitehead in the Lamp Guild Q & A archives, but bending up the tabs from the can material saves having to braze on extra
As the only mantles now available are Aladdin mantles, these are the only option to get a Famos lamp burning, but the fitting is quite different and an adapter is needed to allow the user of an Aladdin mantle bag and its wire frame. The Aladdin mantle is also smaller than the original Famos mantle, so it will not be possible to get the claimed 120 cp output, though it should work at least as well as an Aladdin lamp (c. 60 cp).
The adapter uses the top cut from a small (150 ml, 53 mm diameter) aerosol or metal polish